Our whale shark trips were with the guy who owned the land our bungalows were on, a former fisherman. One trip was just the two of us and the other with six of us total. We saw lots of whale sharks, but even in 2019 there were a fair number of other boats doing the same thing.

We spent several days snorkeling on Chole Bay and thought it was very good; it’s in a protected marine park. Our lodging connected us up with a local guide and boatman based in Chole Bay. We snorkeled, Big Rock, Small Rock, Kolongo, Coral Garden and several other spots I don’t have names for. One day it was just the two of us and another day four of us.

Our boat captain grew up on Chole Island and we had a very interesting walk across the island with him, since he seemed to know everyone we passed by. Afterwards a short boat ride to Juani Island and through a narrow mangrove channel to the “blue lagoon”.

Don’t know if this has changed, but if you stay in the Utende area near Chole Bay you have to pay the marine park fees each day you are in the area, regardless of if you snorkel there or not.

I wasn’t able to find a place with a good house reef in my research at the time.

We really enjoyed our time on Mafia, felt it was just at that perfect level of low-key tourist development. I don’t know how it may have changed since we were there. Sometimes six years can usher in a huge amount of change.